At road. Our reviewers are experienced cyclists that we trust to be objective. While we strive to ensure that opinions expressed are backed up by facts, reviews are by their nature an informed opinion, not a definitive verdict. We don't intentionally try to break anything except locks but we do try to look for weak points in any de. The overall score is not just an average of the other scores: it reflects both a product's function and value trek 1.2 alpha with value determined by how a product compares with items of similar spec, quality, and price.
Good scores are more common than bad, because fortunately good products are more common than bad. The Trek 1. The 1. Is it the right bike for you? We've picked out four reasons why it might be, along with a reason that might make you think twice. Hitting the scales at 9. Compared to bikes of a similar price, it accelerates well. You'll find a little more flex in the frame and fork than in higher level models in Trek's range, but this is a bike that's well capable of holding its own when you crank up the power. You could't say that the 1. It's helped in its hill-climbing endeavours by a compact chainset with tooth and tooth chainrings rather than 52 or 53 and Most bikes of this price come with something similar these days.
Matched up to an tooth cassette, it'll allow you to get up the vast majority of gradients without your knees popping or your lungs bursting, while still providing enough big gears to keep you bowling along quickly on the flat and downhill. Aluminium frames have a reputation for feeling harsh but that's trek 1.2 alpha gross generalisation. Some are jarring — as some carbon frames are — but plenty aren't. This bike is certainly comfortable enough for racking up the big miles. For a start, it comes in Trek's H2 fit.
That requires a brief explanation. Compared to Trek's H1 fit, H2 has a taller head tube: 3cm taller in the case of our 58cm test model. It puts you into a more upright riding position with less strain on your lower back and neck. You could achieve a similar position by adding a bunch of heet spacers on an H1 bike, but if you want your bars at that height, you're better off going for an H2 fit because the front end will be stiffer and the handling will be better.
That means it's that much easier to get down on the drops. A lot of people have a bar with a deep drop and rarely take their hands off the hoods. The other reason for the comfort is that the 1. Sure, there are plenty of bikes out there that will filter our more road vibration but this one does a decent enough job on that front.
Swapping the 23mm tyres for 25s would add more comfort but this bike isn't crying out for them by any means. The Bontrager Gel Cork bar tape provides good cushioning for your hands and the Bontrager Affinity 1 saddle has plenty of padding too. Truth be told, I found it a little too soft, verging on squidgy, but everyone has their own taste when it comes to saddles. All three bikes in the 1 Series share the same Series Alpha Aluminium frame. It's fairly busy looking with a squared off upper edge to the down tube that makes it resemble that of Trek's more costly Madone.
The top tube slopes towards the seat tube junction and tapers down as it does so, and slim seatstays provide compliance at the back. You get mounts for a mudguard and a rack back there too. They'll be useful if you want to ride the bike year round and perhaps carry stuff to and from work on a daily commute. The welds are pretty tidy throughout and the same can be said of the paint job.
The fork is Trek's own with carbon blades and an alloy steerer. Like the frame, it comes with eyelets for fitting mudguards that will save trek 1.2 alpha lot of faffing.
It's worth noting that the Trek 1. That range will cover nearly everyone. Nine-speed Sora is Shimano's fifth tier road groupset if you don't count the electronic variants and it offers fantastic value for money.
Back in the olden days before last yearyou changed gear on Sora by pushing the brake lever to the side or by using a small thumb lever on the side of the shifter body, depending on the direction you wanted to shift. Now, though, Sora levers are Dual Control, so instead of that thumb lever, there's a lever tucked behind the brake lever. It's the same de that Shimano use right up to top-level Dura-Ace and it's a big improvement, making it far easier to change gear from the drops.
Resting your hands on the hoods is comfortable and there's a little gear indicator on the top of each of the levers that you might find useful. I can't say I ever checked them — I just couldn't get into the habit — but they're there if you want to. Whereas the gear cables run underneath the bar tape on Shimano's higher level groupsets, they head out from the side of the levers with Sora and loop around to the frame in the fresh air.
That's certainly not a problem from a functional point of view, although visually it's a trek 1.2 alpha tidy way of doing things. That's being picky, though. Sora shifting has taken a massive leap forward with this latest de.
It works very much like the highest level offerings from Shimano, just adding a little weight. Even there, the difference isn't massive. Trek don't give you a complete Sora groupset here, just the shifters and mechs. The chainset is FSA Vero, a square taper de that does its job just fine, and the brakes, as mentioned, are unbranded. It's worth comparing the spec sheets to see exactly how they match up, but don't buy a bike solely on that basis.
Trek alpha aluminium road bike
That means you can run the wheels without inner tubes at some point in the future, although you'll need to upgrade to Tubeless Ready tyres first. The tyres that come fitted as standard are Bontrager's T1s x They're some pretty hefty rubber, made for durability rather than all-out speed, but they're reasonably resistant to punctures and they hold the road well even in damp conditions. I had no problems at all with the wheels during the month-long test period.
They're not the lightest wheels ever, taking some coaxing up to speed, but they're still as round and as true as trek 1.2 alpha were out of the box, and there's a lot to be said for trouble-free operation. Fast wheels aren't so fast when you're standing on the side of the road trying to remove a broken spoke. Most of the rest of the kit is no-nonsense stuff from Bontrager too, the handlebar, stem and seatpost being reliable alloy options and the Affinity 1 saddle providing at least as much cushioning as most people will want.
There are no two ways about it, the 1. Trek have put the Shimano Sora theme to one side here and specced nameless dual pivot callipers that lack bite. Don't get me wrong, they're consistent and they'll stop you, just not as quickly as you might like.
You have to engage the brakes for a bit longer than normal or pull the levers a bit harder to get down to your desired speed. You adjust to this within a ride or two and don't really think about it until you ride with people who have better brakes on their bikes, or jump back on to a bike with better brakes yourself.
Then you're struck by the contrast. Swapping the brake p helps, but the bottom line is that these brakes are a compromise to make a price point and, for me, they're the weakest aspect of the entire bike. Other compromises? There's nothing that really stands out. Trek offer a decent all-round package here.
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The frame and fork are sound, reliable options and the Sora shifters and mechs are better than anything ly available for this kind of cash. They're a great example of the benefits of trickle down technology. Yes, if you pay a couple of hundred pounds more you'll get a lighter bike that leaps into life more eagerly when you up the intensity for a sprint or tough climb, but that's always the way.
As it is, the Trek 1. The fact that it comes with mudguard and rack eyelets increases its versatility, so you can use it as a year-round workhorse if that's what you're after. We'd have no hesitation recommending this bike for someone after their first proper road bike, or for anyone else looking for plenty of value.
Very good value, ideal for anyone looking for a first real road bike, with just the brakes as a low point. If you're thinking of buying this product using a cashback deal why not use the road. State the frame and fork material and method of construction. List the components used to build up the bike. Tell us what the bike is for, and who it's aimed at. What do the manufacturers say about it?
How does that compare to your own feelings about the bike? Trek say: "1 Series aluminium road bikes feature the same aero shaping and race-ready detail as our top-end bikes. They're strong, light, and built to fly over the pavement," [Trek, being from the US, use "pavement" to mean the surface of a road rather than a path].
It's a tried and tested frame built to a high quality. Essentially, it's slightly more relaxed than a full-on aggressive race position, but it's still speed orientated. How was the bike in terms of height and reach? How did it compare to other bikes of the same stated size? I found it comfortable both in terms of ride position and ride quality. It's certainly a long way from being a bone shaker.
Did the bike feel stiff in the right places? Did any part of the bike feel too stiff or too flexible?